Cheese Codexery

Gorgonzola

Italian blue cheese with protected origin and two main varieties.

Gorgonzola

Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons

Gorgonzola is an Italian blue cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, believed to have been created in the 9th century. Its name is controlled under a protected designation of origin (PDO), and it is produced mainly in the Italian regions of Piedmont and Lombardy. The cheese takes its name from the Lombardian town of Gorgonzola, Milan, where it originated, though other nearby localities dispute the claim of geographical origin.

type
Blue cheese
milk
Unskimmed cow's milk
origin
Gorgonzola, Milan, Italy (disputed)
created
Believed 9th century; first recorded mold in 11th century
varieties
Dolce and piccante
aging
Typically 3–4 months
PDO status
Recognized as DOC in 1955; registered as DOP in 1996

Lore & Background

Gorgonzola has been produced for centuries in Gorgonzola, Milan, acquiring its greenish-blue marbling in the 11th century. The town's claim of geographical origin is disputed by other nearby localities, such as Pasturo nella Valsassina, due to natural caves with ideal temperatures for cheese making. A Lombardy legend tells of a cheese maker who left fresh curds open all night while rushing to meet his lover; he later added more curds, and months later discovered a bluish mold that created the cheese's unique taste, marking the first discovery of the erborinatura process.

Reader's Guide

Gorgonzola is significant as a historic Italian blue cheese with a protected designation of origin (PDO) since 1996, ensuring that within the EU and recognizing countries, only cheese from specific provinces in Piedmont and Lombardy may bear the name. Its two dominant variations—dolce, with a delicate flavor and buttery consistency, and piccante, with a pungent flavor and firm, crumbly texture—offer distinct culinary uses. The cheese is an ingredient in pizza quattro formaggi, used as a topping for steak, melted into risotto, added to gnocchi or pasta, or served with polenta. Outside the EU, the name Gorgonzola may legally be used for imitations, such as those from Wisconsin and Vermont in the United States. Literary references include James Joyce's Ulysses, where the hero Bloom eats a Gorgonzola sandwich, and Richard Ellmann's interpretation linking it to Dante's Gorgon.

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