Camembert

Lore & Background

Camembert was reportedly first made in 1791 by Marie Harel, a farmer from Normandy, following advice from Abbot Charles-Jean Bonvoust. She is credited with refining a previously existing cheese recipe from the Pays d'Auge region. The origin of the cheese known today as Camembert is more likely to rest with the industrialization of cheesemaking at the end of the 19th century. In 1890, engineer M. Ridel devised the wooden box used to transport the cheese, helping it reach longer distances, particularly to America, where it became very popular.

The cheese was famously issued to French troops during World War I, becoming firmly fixed in French popular culture. Before fungi were understood, the rind color was a matter of chance, most commonly blue-grey with brown spots. By the early 20th century, the white rind (Penicillium camemberti) had become standard, and it was widely used by the 1920s–1930s. The variety named Camembert de Normandie was granted an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in 1983, and later received a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) in 1992, requiring it to be made only from raw, unpasteurized milk from Normande cows. However, many other Camemberts sold worldwide are made with pasteurized milk and do not follow these strict requirements.

Reader's Guide

Camembert holds a significant place in French culture, literature, and history, partly due to its issuance to French troops during World War I. Its international popularity led to many local varieties worldwide, including in Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Cornwall (UK), and New Zealand. The cheese's production involves inoculating warmed cow milk with mesophilic bacteria, adding rennet, cutting the curd, and ripening with Penicillium camemberti for a legally required minimum of three weeks. The AOC Camembert de Normandie, representing about 10% of production, must be made with unpasteurized milk, while many modern cheesemakers use pasteurized milk for safety or regulatory reasons. Problems with hygiene regulations have caused restrictions on importation and sale in some countries, notably the US, where a pasteurized variant is sold. The cheese's characteristic odor comes from compounds including diacetyl, 3-methylbutanal, and volatile sulfur compounds; overripe camembert contains an unpleasant amount of ammonia. Compared to brie, camembert is smaller, fully covered by its rind, and has a stronger, slightly sour flavor and softer texture.

Did You Know?

• Camembert was reportedly first made in 1791 by Marie Harel, a farmer from Normandy, following advice from Abbot Charles-Jean Bonvoust.
• In 1890, engineer M. Ridel devised the wooden box that helped send Camembert for longer distances, particularly to America.
• The cheese was famously issued to French troops during World War I, becoming firmly fixed in French popular culture.
• Overripe camembert contains an unpleasant, excessive amount of ammonia produced by the same microorganisms required for ripening.